DJI Osmo Pocket 3 around $439Fujifilm X100VI $1,799-$2,220Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark III around $1,030Sony a6700 $1,319-$1,500Canon EOS R50 $650-$730Sony a6400 $924-$1,100Sony ZV-E10 $586-$800Ricoh GR IIIx around $1,250Ricoh GR III $950-1,050Insta360 X5 around $550Sony RX100 VII $1,250-$1,500Canon EOS R6 Mark II $1,740-$1,999Canon EOS R5 $2,999-$3,426Nikon Z8 $3,023-$3,300DJI Osmo Pocket 3 around $439Fujifilm X100VI $1,799-$2,220Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark III around $1,030Sony a6700 $1,319-$1,500Canon EOS R50 $650-$730Sony a6400 $924-$1,100Sony ZV-E10 $586-$800Ricoh GR IIIx around $1,250Ricoh GR III $950-1,050Insta360 X5 around $550Sony RX100 VII $1,250-$1,500Canon EOS R6 Mark II $1,740-$1,999Canon EOS R5 $2,999-$3,426Nikon Z8 $3,023-$3,300
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"Did I mess up buying an 85mm as a beginner?" No, and the thread explains why

600 upvotes on r/AskPhotography, 329 comments, and nobody told him to go buy another lens.

Published

Someone on r/AskPhotography bought a Sony ZV-E10 and a Viltrox 85mm f/2 for about $200, discovered 85mm is tight, and asked whether he should keep learning with it or buy more glass on a tight budget. The post did 600 upvotes and 329 comments. The answer he got was not the one he was braced for.

Nobody told him to buy anything.

His actual worry was street photography. He thought 85mm was the wrong tool for it. The first reply took that apart:

Nothing wrong with buying an 85mm lens for street photography. Infact you’d disturb the locals less by not shoving your camera right up to their face.

That is the whole objection answered. The wide-lens-for-street idea comes with a cost, which is that you have to be close enough for people to notice you. An 85 lets you stand back. Different pictures, not worse pictures.

The second thing the thread said is that the tightness is the point:

85mm will force you to move around way more than a zoom would, which honestly teaches you composition faster than any tutorial.

And another reply on a 50: “My 50 forces me to compose and get creative. I love it the most. I could ditch the others and be content.” Same argument from a different focal length. A lens that only does one thing makes you solve the frame with your feet.

One commenter went further than encouragement:

Once you get used to it and its special point of view, to me, 85 is just the best lens ever. It’s on my camera almost all the time, even if I own 4 other brilliant lenses.

Four other lenses owned, the 85 still on the camera. Worth noting because it comes from someone who had the option to choose otherwise.

So: don’t buy a second lens yet. He already said his girlfriend loves her portraits, which means the lens is working and the photographer is learning. The frustration he is describing is not a gear problem, it is week three of owning a prime. Shoot it until you can predict where you have to stand before you raise the camera. Then, if you still want wider, you will know exactly which focal length you are missing instead of guessing.

On the exposure question, the thread did not take it up, so here is only what he already described: manual shutter, manual aperture, auto ISO, shutter as slow as his hands allow with no stabilisation in either body or lens. That is a reasonable way to work at night. The one thing to keep an eye on is that 85mm on APS-C is a long lens, so the slowest hand-holdable speed is faster than it feels like it should be, and a subject who moves will blur even when your hands do not.

Also worth reading the nearby thread where someone points out that the triangle shadow in a famous street photograph was added in the darkroom. The reply: “Oh it was one of my favourite images of his and didn’t know he had added that triangle shadows.” Useful context for anyone comparing their first month of frames to the canon.

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